Dr. Ulli Stein, one of the staunchest advocates and most celebrated champions of the Mosel in Germany, makes a range of lithe, buoyant wines from the region’s steep, slate slopes. ‘Red Light’ is his tart, herbal pinot noir. Almost airy in its lightness, this is an exceptionally easy-drinking, cool-climate red.

Tastes like: Cherry, fennel, red licorice, smoke.

How to drink: Lightly chilled with duck or herb-roasted chicken.